Big City, Little Homestead

Living rural in the city is great – you can do it, too.

Page 13 of 18

Installing a wood pellet stove

Don’t you just love lounging (or curling up) by the fire on a cold winter’s eve? Lord knows, I do — just as much as in summer, because I love camping! So when I bought my home in late 2005, I had a wish list, and fireplace was right up there in the “needs” section.

Indeed, most homes have one, because along with having a full-sized kitchen or a second bathroom, a fireplace or woodstove is one of the most common requirements. I wonder if this is true everywhere, and not just in an area where, if your main source of heat fails, you need a backup.

So this photo, taken directly from the MLS listing I first saw, was what my fireplace first looked like:

As soon as I got the keys, my first order of business was to paint that room something other than the colour of crud (that yellow-y beige, reminiscent of grease trapped in the grill of your stove vent). I chose blue with white wainscotting and trim:

terra cotta tile surround
The next incarnation, once furniture moved in

It took a while to realize I didn’t like the terracotta tile surround of the fireplace, and that I could paint it – so I painted it white. What a difference it made! It brightened up that corner of the room (you’ll see a pic later down this post).

Fireplace fire
A 2013-dated picture of a fire, simply because FIRE!

But alas, I rarely used the fireplace, because as every homeowner learns, they are an exit to the outdoors through which all your heat escapes. The glass doors on a fireplace limit that loss in a very minimal way; in fact I hung a blanket across the fireplace when it was really cold and didn’t light any fires at all. Fires were basically for the fall and spring. I still have some of the firewood left to me by the previous owner, which I’m saving up for campfires with friends.

Pellet stoves: an ecologically sound replacement

My carbon footprint is probably as close to neutral as it can get without being surrounded by forest and going solar. I’ve planted a lot of trees, so I don’t feel bad at all about burning wood for its ambiance. Still, there’s a better way to do it than how we have…

I wanted to replace my cold and drafty fireplace with an EPA-certified wood burning stove insert (“insert” means putting a stove…into a fireplace!) But then Montreal enacted the 2013 anti-fireplace law (controversial, for good reason) that disallowed solid fuel stoves and masonry heaters. The law is now revised so that fuel type is not important, if the emissions certification protects air quality.

I prefer solid wood as fuel because to have local private forests, we need to value them. The best way to value them on private land, after the joy of owning a forest of course, is to have woodlots. Firewood comes from dropped deadwood and selective logging. Cutting a small percentage of a forest every year (around 3%) is sustainable and generally not considered harmful for an ecosystem (considering every tree on a case by case basis). What happens if we don’t value firewood? We will lose woodlots – small forests – as landowners transform them into something more “profitable.”

With the new law, I decided on a pellet stove (pellets are compressed sawdust from the milling process). I did my research, acquired the permit, and bought the Harmon pellet stove P35i fireplace insert. It heats up to 900 square feet, which is enough to make my TV den / home office nice and toasty. Foyers Lambert did the job in late fall 2014.

This is how I enjoyed my new fireplace in Winter 2015:

pellet stove with fire
Here’s where you can see the painted white tile surround of the fireplace.
tile surround wood stove

I installed the floor tiles in the spring of 2015. Insurance policies require 18 inches of tile or fireproof flooring in front of the hearth, so this is how it looked with the new floor. Unfortunately, the tile installer didn’t notice the ashes drawer under the stove, so it’s rather a tight fit.

The cover photo (at the top of this post!) is how I enjoy the pellet stove now. I buy my pellets at Reno Depot and at Rona on St. Patrick, and a bag lasts me about three to four days of lounging in the TV den/office space for about 3 hours per night (a bag is about 12 hours of burn). At around $5.75 a bag, this is an inexpensive way to be warm, comfortable, and happy (the Danes have one word for all three: hyggelige) on a cold night.

A different call to action…

If you have no intention to (or aren’t in the financial position yet) to upgrade your fireplace, there’s something really awesome you can do for nature. Come spring, inspect and clean your chimney and prepare it for welcoming chimney swifts. They need urban habitat! And they will only occupy the chimney during the late spring and summer, leaving with autumn migration.

Unfortunately, woodstoves use metal pipes to line the chimneys — unless you choose a different egress for the smoke, little that there is (up to 90% less smoke than traditional fires). Swifts can’t cling to and build their nests in metal pipes; they need masonry towers.

Better energy options for drying your laundry

I’ve long used a clothesline to dry my laundry out in the sun and fresh air. When I first moved in, I installed a “clothesline elevator” at the back door. It’s a device that raises and lowers the pulley by about a meter, so that the laundry hangs high overhead.

When I shortened the deck in September 2012, the 2×4 supporting the clothesline’s pulley came crashing down. The screws that held it in place left scrappy holes in the fencepost (same fence post, reused here) from all that tension. The only other place I found to install the pulley made for a shorter clothesline. Loathe to cut the line without having considered all my options, I took the clothesline down for the winter.

My laundry room already has two shower rails to hang clothes from. I also have a clothes drying rack. And this past summer, we had a humid spell that was making my posters and photos curl in my basement, so I acquired an old dehumidifier. It turns out it is the perfect solution for drying clothes indoors on a cool autumn or cold Canadian winter day (it even produces a bit of heat).

Why a dehumidifier is superior to a standard clothes dryer

The annual average cost of running a dryer is $160 (calculated across a few websites, lately). So, after the necessary but variable cost of running baseboard heaters and your refrigerator, your clothes dryer is literally the biggest energy draw in your home. It’s obviously not necessary when you can use a clothesline. But when you run it in winter, you’re virtually throwing money out the window!

When you run a bathroom fan, kitchen fan, or the clothes dryer, you’re venting out air that’s been heated. This depressurizes your home, which will suck cold air in through the cracks, seams, and other places where air infiltrates. Rather than create a pressure differential (and heat the air twice), it makes a lot more sense to use a dehumidifier in the laundry room. The dehumidifer pulls the water out of the clothes in a matter of hours.

My dryer is about 20 years old and brags that it uses 111 kWh per month. Hardly an EnergyStar! I don’t know the rating on my dehumidifier, but it’s surely lower than that, and it’s not dragging cold air for ambient heating. The residual heat of the unit is a bonus, and the water from the reservoir can be used for watering the plants.

Another obvious advantage is that there’s less wear-and-tear on your clothes, and for certain fabrics, less shrinkage! This is a priority in Europe, where they care slightly more about the care of one’s clothes and so typically use better drying options (check out this blog post on the Green Home Building Advisor website).

So I’ve started using the dehumidifier in my laundry room. I’m impressed with the drying time (about 2 hours) and the state of my towels—they don’t dry stiff. The only part I miss is the de-linting that a good tumble dry can do. Should that be a problem for a few sheets and garments, I can take them to the laundromat for a 10-minute tumble to solve that problem.

From failure to beautiful, bounteous garden (finally!)

Back in 2012 when I first started blogging, I had plans for a “SPIN farm” (Small Plot INtensive). Before getting on to this year’s bragging (about how “bounteous” it is), I’m gonna talk about that initial failure:

Current image: Back yard plans

Initial garden failures, and the start of harvesting

My ambitious SPIN farm plan (above) didn’t pan out. After expecting to blog every week about how my garden grew, I met with total failure. Like, almost everything failed. (It was overcrowded to begin with.) How embarrassing.

What didn’t grow at all, or was quickly lost: peppers, garlic, dill, mint, pole beans, carrots, chard, beets, cavolo.

After adding new soil to the box section intended for salad — stolen by small birds and animals — the perimeter defence wasn’t good enough. The sparrows were coming in from the top. So I chicken-wired the lot!

Many tomato seedlings sprung up, so when the section intended for chard, beets, and spinach failed, I put the tomatoes in. I feel like, if they have enough sun, tomatoes can thrive anywhere. The rocket (arugula) also did well, scattered in the plot.

A 12″ deep above-ground planter box, originally meant for carrots, was good for nothing except two plantain weeds for my rabbits. Even when I transplanted lettuce there – capped with a glass shelf to deter the birds – it still failed. All my lettuce sprouts died or got stolen no matter where I transplanted them, and it was really frustrating.

I came to admit that none of my cucurbits would be producing any squash, watermelon (they didn’t survive – it’s a mystery what happened), or pumpkins that year, except for one cucumber plant in the front yard that wasn’t even for pickling. (I should have eaten the flowers all along.) Here is the seasonal progression:

And the beautiful cucumbers in the back yard that made up for a dismal start? They got cucumber wilt, a bacterial disease transmitted by cucumber beetles. I wrote a paper on it only last year. (The paper is a dry synthesis of a lot of information out there. It’s useful to the organic farmer planting a good couple of rows of cucurbits.)

The first fruits of the garden – not counting a handful of curly yellow beans – were these delicious cherry tomatoes. At least they produced a respectable harvest, and the small Roma plants, too. Here are photos of the garden from when the drought finally ended:

Rabbit attacks

Kaori executing a snack attack

I’ve mentioned one failure due to rabbit attack (see one caption above). Every day, I put the rabbits out if they showed the least bit of interest. The girls usually did. Kaori was my confident lady. Elizabeth was in a different way — as an escape artist that finally understood the concept of herding. Kaori just trusted that the world wasn’t scary a place, and she could do no wrong, because she hardly ever did. Except she decided to get into eating the pepper plants. Here she was chomping down on a pepper plant just as I took this photo. I picked her up and put her down in a different part of the yard.

(I lost both girls last year, Kaori to the indignities of old age, and Elizabeth to misadventure. They are missed.)

Thus was my 2012 garden adventure. Other gardens nearby were lusher, and so I made plans for what I would do differently in 2013 onward. This is what I wanted: a proper fence down the meridian of the front yard, and a rain barrel with a seeping hose so that I can better serve the water needs of my front garden. The back garden wanted lots of compost enrichment, soil testing in the spring, liming it, and getting things better prepared earlier in the season. But mostly, it wanted light. I stopped trying to grow anything in the ground there..

Waterlilies, at least, can be counted upon whatever the weather.

Now on to this year’s success

When I installed the green driveway in April, I did two more things to benefit my garden: I installed an irrigation field (also known as an infiltration gallery) from the downspout, so that rainwater could be stored and percolate into my front yard. I also had a box garden installed, 1′ wide and all along the length of the fence down the middle of the shared yard — about 24′ long (you can see the pics at the link above). In it and elsewhere, I planted many, many vegetables—and they’ve done so well, I have to share photos!

Biggest year ever.

I would be remiss to not mention the ground cherries. I bought many of these plants as seedlings from the company that helped me with the driveway work, and they specialize in urban potagers. So compared to starting things from seed, it’s greater expense, but it’s a jump on the growing season. The reward: I have quite a large bush of them this year.

But there is one other factor about this incredible growth and harvest: I applied a lot of chemical fertilizer this year. In previous years, it was only compost. I’m a little disappointed that it seems to be such a necessity, but it definitely has something to do with how much there is to harvest.

Biophilia month: Things to know and observe about wasps

Although the month of July isn’t quite over, today’s post is because when August really sets in, the wasps come out. It’s true you’ve seen them all year, but in August, they can become rather bothersome. I want to prepare you in case their pesteriferousness! starts early, or has started already. 

The reason they start pursuing food at our outdoor tables and patios is rather sympathetic, actually. The fact is, these nuisance wasps are workers – and males – and it’s the end of the season. They’ve served their purpose of gathering food for the larvae, so they’re no longer getting nectar rewards. Starving, they’re looking for anything sweet to eat.

In any case, that’s not the only way in which the female wasps cut off the males. They also “stuff” them into cells to keep them from poaching food (an article from 1997).

Feeding = peaceful

One September, my parents’ neighbour’s tree was dropping apples all over the ground. This was easy fodder for hungry wasps (and rabbits). They were peacefully intent on imbibing the fallen fruit – and, like moose in Sweden, were a little drunk too.

A similar situation happened to me last year. I had a bunch of hornets hanging around drinking sap from a wounded sumac tree. I’d used a nylon cord to keep the tree upright when it was flopping over, and it was cutting into the new bark. Hornets are big, really, really big. It was size alone that made me think these were hornets – they were more than 1″ long, so I was worried about the potential for stings. If a stranger came onto my property and riled them up for any reason, I could imagine the scene it would create.

But honestly, they were there for food. The sooner the tree wound stopped seeping, the sooner they would go away. To hurry that to its conclusion, I hosed the tree down carefully at night, cut off the nylon cord, and cleaned the wound while the hornets were stunned. Over the course of a week, the tree stopped seeping – and the hornet numbers dwindled until they went away.

But what if they’re nesting?

Not all wasps are dangerous to people. They can be beneficial, too. In fact, some extermination websites such as this primer on how to identify common wasps have gotten a lot better about explaining “pest” creatures to the people who believe they’re doing a good thing by ridding their property of biota. By giving accurate information on how the species looks and behaves, it can alleviate unnecessary fear and squeamishness (although they still cater to the biophobic by suggesting that perhaps it’s still a good thing to remove them). I’m pleased to be able to use these sites as a resource when they play nice.

And I was one of those people who thought they’re doing a good thing by removing a paper wasp hive. Early on in my property management experience, I got a doozy of a wasp sting, and I gladly killed the offender, even though that rallied the others and I had to escape inside.

In July of 2012 (part of my blogging journey that lead to here), I hosed down a wasp’s hive at the corner of my garage door with its attendant seven or eight worker wasps. They’d built hives before in the corners of the upper windows. It wasn’t a problem, but usually people don’t let hives stick around. I wanted to be like most people – a good steward of public-facing property. So I started the hose slow, and after a few passes of knocking the nurse wasps off, I turned on the jet and knocked the hive down.

Then I stood back and watched.

The workers spent the rest of the day rescuing and recovering the larvae. With the intense, careful work they were doing, I could only presume they were pulling them out of the husk of the hive. Then they set about creating a new hive in the same place, but with fewer cells. They went right back to tending it and sealing the larvae in. Ants scavenged the rest of the non-viable hive, plus at least one wasp that appeared she didn’t survive the dowsing.

Having observed the consequences of my actions and how they worked to create a new hive, I felt bad about it afterward. After all, it was a cosmetic concern. Over the course of them living here, attaching their small hives to corners of framing, they’d been peaceful – no threatening buzzing around humans. So I decided to leave them be.

BBQ sanity

So the ones that are buzzing around your barbeque? Consider cutting them a break, as they can’t help it – they’re hungry, and at least they escaped a potentially unpleasant death at the hands of unwelcoming relatives.

I recommend putting out a dish of extra-sweet aromatic fruit on a table not too far from what you’re planning to eat. Don’t panic when they buzz you, just blow at them, or lightly wave them away. If wasps can recognize individual faces (and Polistes fuscates can), they’ll probably be able to see the difference between the food that we guard, vs. food that no one interferes with.

Bonus in that you could leave the fruit out for other beneficial insects to enjoy. Like bees and even butterflies, if you’re lucky.

Wasps aren’t interested in stinging you, and you can avoid being stung simply by not acting threatened by them, which make you the threat. Most stings happen when we’re not aware – we stumble into nest, or into a single wasp at the wrong time, like the time I grabbed a weeping willow frond, only at a location where a wasp was feeding or resting. Ow. That one hurt. That you’re aware of them means you’re able to stay calm and safe from harm. If you do get stung, just back out of there and wash and treat the affected area. Use an ice pack. Don’t retaliate, even if you’re upset. It will only elevate the threat level.

Since accidents happen, prevent them by being observant – not by killing every wasp that could invade air space near you.

Come fall, they’ll have lived out their natural life cycle and they won’t be bothering anyone. Try not being bothered by them now, while they’re still around.

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