Big City, Little Homestead

Living rural in the city is great – you can do it, too.

Page 13 of 17

My beautiful, bounteous garden (finally!)

When I installed the green driveway in April, I did two more things to benefit my garden: I installed an irrigation field (also known as an infiltration gallery) from the downspout, so that rainwater could be stored and percolate into my front yard, and I had them build me a box garden, 1′ wide and all along the length of the fence down the middle of the shared yard — about 24′ long. You can see the pics at the link above. In it and elsewhere, I planted many, many vegetables—and they’ve done so well, I have to share photos!

I would be remiss to not mention the ground cherries. I bought many of these plants as seedlings from the company that helped me with the driveway work, and they specialize in urban potagers. So compared to starting things from seed, it’s greater expense, but it’s a jump on the growing season. The reward: I have quite a large bush of them this year.

One other factor about this incredible growth and harvest: I applied a lot of chemical fertilizer this year. Previous years, it was only compost. I’m a little disappointed that it is such a necessity, but it actually is.

Biophilia month: Things to know and observe about wasps

Although the month of July isn’t quite over, today’s post is because when August really sets in, the wasps come out. It’s true you’ve seen them all year, but in August, they can become rather bothersome. I want to prepare you in case their pesteriferousness! starts early, or has started already. 

The reason they start pursuing food at our outdoor tables and patios is rather sympathetic, actually. The fact is, these nuisance wasps are workers – and males – and it’s the end of the season. They’ve served their purpose of gathering food for the larvae, so they’re no longer getting nectar rewards. Starving, they’re looking for anything sweet to eat.

In any case, that’s not the only way in which the female wasps cut off the males. They also “stuff” them into cells to keep them from poaching food (an article from 1997).

Feeding = peaceful

One September, my parents’ neighbour’s tree was dropping apples all over the ground. This was easy fodder for hungry wasps (and rabbits). They were peacefully intent on imbibing the fallen fruit – and, like moose in Sweden, were a little drunk too.

A similar situation happened to me last year. I had a bunch of hornets hanging around drinking sap from a wounded sumac tree. I’d used a nylon cord to keep the tree upright when it was flopping over, and it was cutting into the new bark. Hornets are big, really, really big. It was size alone that made me think these were hornets – they were more than 1″ long, so I was worried about the potential for stings. If a stranger came onto my property and riled them up for any reason, I could imagine the scene it would create.

But honestly, they were there for food. The sooner the tree wound stopped seeping, the sooner they would go away. To hurry that to its conclusion, I hosed the tree down carefully at night, cut off the nylon cord, and cleaned the wound while the hornets were stunned. Over the course of a week, the tree stopped seeping – and the hornet numbers dwindled until they went away.

But what if they’re nesting?

Not all wasps are dangerous to people. They can be beneficial, too. In fact, some extermination websites such as this primer on how to identify common wasps have gotten a lot better about explaining “pest” creatures to the people who believe they’re doing a good thing by ridding their property of biota. By giving accurate information on how the species looks and behaves, it can alleviate unnecessary fear and squeamishness (although they still cater to the biophobic by suggesting that perhaps it’s still a good thing to remove them). I’m pleased to be able to use these sites as a resource when they play nice.

And I was one of those people who thought they’re doing a good thing by removing a paper wasp hive. Early on in my property management experience, I got a doozy of a wasp sting, and I gladly killed the offender, even though that rallied the others and I had to escape inside.

In July of 2012 (part of my blogging journey that lead to here), I hosed down a wasp’s hive at the corner of my garage door with its attendant seven or eight worker wasps. They’d built hives before in the corners of the upper windows. It wasn’t a problem, but usually people don’t let hives stick around. I wanted to be like most people – a good steward of public-facing property. So I started the hose slow, and after a few passes of knocking the nurse wasps off, I turned on the jet and knocked the hive down.

Then I stood back and watched.

The workers spent the rest of the day rescuing and recovering the larvae. With the intense, careful work they were doing, I could only presume they were pulling them out of the husk of the hive. Then they set about creating a new hive in the same place, but with fewer cells. They went right back to tending it and sealing the larvae in. Ants scavenged the rest of the non-viable hive, plus at least one wasp that appeared she didn’t survive the dowsing.

Having observed the consequences of my actions and how they worked to create a new hive, I felt bad about it afterward. After all, it was a cosmetic concern. Over the course of them living here, attaching their small hives to corners of framing, they’d been peaceful – no threatening buzzing around humans. So I decided to leave them be.

BBQ sanity

So the ones that are buzzing around your barbeque? Consider cutting them a break, as they can’t help it – they’re hungry, and at least they escaped a potentially unpleasant death at the hands of unwelcoming relatives.

I recommend putting out a dish of extra-sweet aromatic fruit on a table not too far from what you’re planning to eat. Don’t panic when they buzz you, just blow at them, or lightly wave them away. If wasps can recognize individual faces (and Polistes fuscates can), they’ll probably be able to see the difference between the food that we guard, vs. food that no one interferes with.

Bonus in that you could leave the fruit out for other beneficial insects to enjoy. Like bees and even butterflies, if you’re lucky.

Wasps aren’t interested in stinging you, and you can avoid being stung simply by not being a threat to them, or acting threatened by them. Most stings happen when we’re not being watchful and we stumble into nest or into a single wasp at the wrong time – like the time I grabbed a weeping willow frond, only at a location where a wasp was feeding or resting. Ow. That one hurt.

Since accidents happen, prevent them by being observant – not by killing every wasp that could invade 3-dimensional space near you.

Come fall, they’ll have lived out their natural life cycle and they won’t be bothering anyone. Try not being bothered by them now, while they’re still around.

June is not too late to start an urban potager or native plant garden!

If this spring, with all this rain and insufficient heat, has been frustrating or lacking in inspiration, don’t despair! You can still have a lovely garden this summer. Here are some resources to help you — especially those of you in Montreal, Quebec, and eastern Ontario, where most of these resources can be reached.

While deciding what it is you want in your garden, double-check your zone (Montrealers: we are in Zone 5). Look for vegetables that can be planted in the middle of June for a harvest in a short timeframe, up until October. 

Vegetables

The word potager has long since migrated into English to knowingly refer to a kitchen garden: the herbs and vegetables a cook can reach for at almost any time, to add to a meal, or, space allowing, plant up for proper harvest.

If you can read French, download the Guide potager urbain by the couple from Drummondville who were given a legal hassle in 2012 about having a front yard full of vegetables. This 240-page e-book is a handy guide to having a very attractive and productive garden. You might not be able to do so as extensively as they had it, but set yourself a goal of one small project.

This is the “offending” garden that won the Drummondville couple a victory regarding the use of their front yard for purposes other than lawn and parking

Here are the next steps: Vegetable seedlings are now well past their prime at the grocery stores, garden centres, and greenhouses where they’re sold (one such vendor is Semis urbains / Urban Seedling). You’ll surely be able to find some on sale. Get them into the ground, or into standard or wicking (self-watering) pots as quickly as possible, and water them well (you can even provide some shade for the first day or two; if it’s a sunny spell, they may need it).

Make sure that compost is part of the soil mix, and mulch the surface to retain moisture. Water them every day if the rain doesn’t come.

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Solar tunnels and lighting renovations

(The photos in this post are terrible, but that’s the camera I have right now.)

In making my home more energy-efficient, one of the first projects that I could get off the ground was changing the lighting. Here’s one reason it was so necessary:

A recessed lighting pot with a junction box attached to it, with a batt of attic insulation over it

Recessed lighting, beloved by designers and dwellers alike, shouldn’t be installed in a ceiling that vents into the attic (or space below the roof, like in a cathedral ceiling). A pot light necessarily needs to shed the heat of the light unit. It may look nice, but you’re creating a gaping hole, 5″ in diameter, through which all the heat escapes. Heat rises, pulling in air from below, which means you’re constantly heating fresh air that must come in from the outside. Don’t have unsealed holes in your ceiling! (If you’re using the new LED units, which don’t throw off that much heat, you have to seal the casing to the ceiling.)

My attic has 11 rows of batts. I will add more and take my attic insulation from R-20 to R-50.

That’s not the only issue. Unless the pot light has a fireproof box, you’re putting yourself at risk of an electrical fire in your attic. Because, like the above picture shows, insulation batts or blown insulation are layered on top of the electrical wiring.

Look to the right: the dark staining that you see on the Fiberglass Pink is where the batt has acted like an air filter: it’s dust. Fibreglass is slow to catch fire, but there is still has fuel to burn.

Changing the fixtures

One of my priority projects was therefore to cut down on the heat loss by removing the seven recessed lights in my attic ceiling. Three were in the foyer ceiling (pictured below), and four in the bathroom.

The electrician installed junction boxes for regular ceiling lights above the bathroom vanity and at the top of the foyer. I installed some temporary track lighting above the vanity until I can find fixtures I want. We used a swag lamp in the foyer. He also installed a new sconce in the bathroom. I patched over the holes in the ceiling.

We then took these recessed light units and installed them in my basement. With only one recessed light and a pair of sconces, it had been dreadfully dim. Two table lamps and two desk lamps kept things cozy and functional. Still, more overhead lighting would be nice.

Now that I moved five recessed lights down there (six in total), I replaced the halogen bulbs (GU10s; kept to replace burn-out bulbs as-needed for the main floor lights) with brand new LED bulbs. At 5–6W each, the current light circuit uses as much electricity as the single 35W halogen bulb had, before!

Installing the solar tunnels

All of the above effort was a necessary refresh, but it paved the way for something I’ve wanted to do for a long time: bring natural light indoors by installing a solar tunnel! Natural lighting upstairs was entirely dependent on the bedroom and bathroom doors being open. If they were closed, the whole foyer was dark at mid-day. So I’d left one recessed unit in place until the solar tunnels were installed, because the electrician had to come back to connect the light kits.

I ordered the solar tunnels from Velux through my installer. We needed a permit to do this, but they did not have to send it to “study,” because it wouldn’t affect the appearance of the house from the street.

We were really lucky on the late December day the installer scheduled: The weather was unseasonably warm. Installing a solar tunnel involves cutting a big hole in the roof to install the lens and one in the ceiling to insert the diffuser. Then the tunnel to connect the two, and then the light fixtures on the inside of the tunnel. Since we were installing two, I bought a light kit for each of them, so they would be connected to the light switch for nighttime illumination. I also bought the energy kit to make them eligible for the EcoRenov tax credit (now the RénoVert tax credit, good through 2019). This energy kit installs an extra thermal break so that the cold isn’t conducted down into your living space.

The work

You need two skilled workers for the job: one in your attic and one on your roof, fitting together the couplings that will seal the unit and keep water out. And later, the electrician, unless the installer is certified.

The result

The solar tunnels immediately made a big difference – natural light provides quality of life! The formerly dark stairwell is now filled with light:

After painting the ceilings – and the whole bathroom (note the green, then the yellow) – the job was done, and I’m really pleased with it. Money well spent.

To clean the light diffuser: moths who will eventually find their way into the attic and into the tunnel, so to clean it, you simply spin the lock ring, flip the lock tabs, and then pop the circular plastic disc out. It has a rubber gasket seal. Then wash and dry it and pop it back in. Easy-peasy; the hardest part is dealing with the step ladder.

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