Big City, Little Homestead

Living rural in the city is great – you can do it, too.

Page 13 of 17

Better energy options for drying your laundry

I’ve long used a clothesline to dry my laundry out in the sun and fresh air. When I first moved in, I installed a “clothesline elevator” at the back door. It’s a device that raises and lowers the pulley by about a meter, so that the laundry hangs high overhead.

When I shortened the deck in September 2012, the 2×4 supporting the clothesline’s pulley came crashing down. The screws that held it in place left scrappy holes in the fencepost (same fence post, reused here) from all that tension. The only other place I found to install the pulley made for a shorter clothesline. Loathe to cut the line without having considered all my options, I took the clothesline down for the winter.

My laundry room already has two shower rails to hang clothes from. I also have a clothes drying rack. And this past summer, we had a humid spell that was making my posters and photos curl in my basement, so I acquired an old dehumidifier. It turns out it is the perfect solution for drying clothes indoors on a cool autumn or cold Canadian winter day (it even produces a bit of heat).

Why a dehumidifier is superior to a standard clothes dryer

The annual average cost of running a dryer is $160 (calculated across a few websites, lately). So, after the necessary but variable cost of running baseboard heaters and your refrigerator, your clothes dryer is literally the biggest energy draw in your home. It’s obviously not necessary when you can use a clothesline. But when you run it in winter, you’re virtually throwing money out the window!

When you run a bathroom fan, kitchen fan, or the clothes dryer, you’re venting out air that’s been heated. This depressurizes your home, which will suck cold air in through the cracks, seams, and other places where air infiltrates. Rather than create a pressure differential (and heat the air twice), it makes a lot more sense to use a dehumidifier in the laundry room. The dehumidifer pulls the water out of the clothes in a matter of hours.

My dryer is about 20 years old and brags that it uses 111 kWh per month. Hardly an EnergyStar! I don’t know the rating on my dehumidifier, but it’s surely lower than that, and it’s not dragging cold air for ambient heating. The residual heat of the unit is a bonus, and the water from the reservoir can be used for watering the plants.

Another obvious advantage is that there’s less wear-and-tear on your clothes, and for certain fabrics, less shrinkage! This is a priority in Europe, where they care slightly more about the care of one’s clothes and so typically use better drying options (check out this blog post on the Green Home Building Advisor website).

So I’ve started using the dehumidifier in my laundry room. I’m impressed with the drying time (about 2 hours) and the state of my towels—they don’t dry stiff. The only part I miss is the de-linting that a good tumble dry can do. Should that be a problem for a few sheets and garments, I can take them to the laundromat for a 10-minute tumble to solve that problem.

From failure to beautiful, bounteous garden (finally!)

Back in 2012 when I first started blogging, I had plans for a “SPIN farm” (Small Plot INtensive). Before getting on to this year’s bragging (about how “bounteous” it is), I’m gonna talk about that initial failure:

Current image: Back yard plans

Initial garden failures, and the start of harvesting

My ambitious SPIN farm plan (above) didn’t pan out. After expecting to blog every week about how my garden grew, I met with total failure. Like, almost everything failed. (It was overcrowded to begin with.) How embarrassing.

What didn’t grow at all, or was quickly lost: peppers, garlic, dill, mint, pole beans, carrots, chard, beets, cavolo.

After adding new soil to the box section intended for salad — stolen by small birds and animals — the perimeter defence wasn’t good enough. The sparrows were coming in from the top. So I chicken-wired the lot!

Many tomato seedlings sprung up, so when the section intended for chard, beets, and spinach failed, I put the tomatoes in. I feel like, if they have enough sun, tomatoes can thrive anywhere. The rocket (arugula) also did well, scattered in the plot.

A 12″ deep above-ground planter box, originally meant for carrots, was good for nothing except two plantain weeds for my rabbits. Even when I transplanted lettuce there – capped with a glass shelf to deter the birds – it still failed. All my lettuce sprouts died or got stolen no matter where I transplanted them, and it was really frustrating.

I came to admit that none of my cucurbits would be producing any squash, watermelon (they didn’t survive – it’s a mystery what happened), or pumpkins that year, except for one cucumber plant in the front yard that wasn’t even for pickling. (I should have eaten the flowers all along.) Here is the seasonal progression:

And the beautiful cucumbers in the back yard that made up for a dismal start? They got cucumber wilt, a bacterial disease transmitted by cucumber beetles. I wrote a paper on it only last year. (The paper is a dry synthesis of a lot of information out there. It’s useful to the organic farmer planting a good couple of rows of cucurbits.)

The first fruits of the garden – not counting a handful of curly yellow beans – were these delicious cherry tomatoes. At least they produced a respectable harvest, and the small Roma plants, too. Here are photos of the garden from when the drought finally ended:

Rabbit attacks

Kaori executing a snack attack

I’ve mentioned one failure due to rabbit attack (see one caption above). Every day, I put the rabbits out if they showed the least bit of interest. The girls usually did. Kaori was my confident lady. Elizabeth was in a different way — as an escape artist that finally understood the concept of herding. Kaori just trusted that the world wasn’t scary a place, and she could do no wrong, because she hardly ever did. Except she decided to get into eating the pepper plants. Here she was chomping down on a pepper plant just as I took this photo. I picked her up and put her down in a different part of the yard.

(I lost both girls last year, Kaori to the indignities of old age, and Elizabeth to misadventure. They are missed.)

Thus was my 2012 garden adventure. Other gardens nearby were lusher, and so I made plans for what I would do differently in 2013 onward. This is what I wanted: a proper fence down the meridian of the front yard, and a rain barrel with a seeping hose so that I can better serve the water needs of my front garden. The back garden wanted lots of compost enrichment, soil testing in the spring, liming it, and getting things better prepared earlier in the season. But mostly, it wanted light. I stopped trying to grow anything in the ground there..

Waterlilies, at least, can be counted upon whatever the weather.

Now on to this year’s success

When I installed the green driveway in April, I did two more things to benefit my garden: I installed an irrigation field (also known as an infiltration gallery) from the downspout, so that rainwater could be stored and percolate into my front yard. I also had a box garden installed, 1′ wide and all along the length of the fence down the middle of the shared yard — about 24′ long (you can see the pics at the link above). In it and elsewhere, I planted many, many vegetables—and they’ve done so well, I have to share photos!

Biggest year ever.

I would be remiss to not mention the ground cherries. I bought many of these plants as seedlings from the company that helped me with the driveway work, and they specialize in urban potagers. So compared to starting things from seed, it’s greater expense, but it’s a jump on the growing season. The reward: I have quite a large bush of them this year.

But there is one other factor about this incredible growth and harvest: I applied a lot of chemical fertilizer this year. In previous years, it was only compost. I’m a little disappointed that it seems to be such a necessity, but it definitely has something to do with how much there is to harvest.

Biophilia month: Things to know and observe about wasps

Although the month of July isn’t quite over, today’s post is because when August really sets in, the wasps come out. It’s true you’ve seen them all year, but in August, they can become rather bothersome. I want to prepare you in case their pesteriferousness! starts early, or has started already. 

The reason they start pursuing food at our outdoor tables and patios is rather sympathetic, actually. The fact is, these nuisance wasps are workers – and males – and it’s the end of the season. They’ve served their purpose of gathering food for the larvae, so they’re no longer getting nectar rewards. Starving, they’re looking for anything sweet to eat.

In any case, that’s not the only way in which the female wasps cut off the males. They also “stuff” them into cells to keep them from poaching food (an article from 1997).

Feeding = peaceful

One September, my parents’ neighbour’s tree was dropping apples all over the ground. This was easy fodder for hungry wasps (and rabbits). They were peacefully intent on imbibing the fallen fruit – and, like moose in Sweden, were a little drunk too.

A similar situation happened to me last year. I had a bunch of hornets hanging around drinking sap from a wounded sumac tree. I’d used a nylon cord to keep the tree upright when it was flopping over, and it was cutting into the new bark. Hornets are big, really, really big. It was size alone that made me think these were hornets – they were more than 1″ long, so I was worried about the potential for stings. If a stranger came onto my property and riled them up for any reason, I could imagine the scene it would create.

But honestly, they were there for food. The sooner the tree wound stopped seeping, the sooner they would go away. To hurry that to its conclusion, I hosed the tree down carefully at night, cut off the nylon cord, and cleaned the wound while the hornets were stunned. Over the course of a week, the tree stopped seeping – and the hornet numbers dwindled until they went away.

But what if they’re nesting?

Not all wasps are dangerous to people. They can be beneficial, too. In fact, some extermination websites such as this primer on how to identify common wasps have gotten a lot better about explaining “pest” creatures to the people who believe they’re doing a good thing by ridding their property of biota. By giving accurate information on how the species looks and behaves, it can alleviate unnecessary fear and squeamishness (although they still cater to the biophobic by suggesting that perhaps it’s still a good thing to remove them). I’m pleased to be able to use these sites as a resource when they play nice.

And I was one of those people who thought they’re doing a good thing by removing a paper wasp hive. Early on in my property management experience, I got a doozy of a wasp sting, and I gladly killed the offender, even though that rallied the others and I had to escape inside.

In July of 2012 (part of my blogging journey that lead to here), I hosed down a wasp’s hive at the corner of my garage door with its attendant seven or eight worker wasps. They’d built hives before in the corners of the upper windows. It wasn’t a problem, but usually people don’t let hives stick around. I wanted to be like most people – a good steward of public-facing property. So I started the hose slow, and after a few passes of knocking the nurse wasps off, I turned on the jet and knocked the hive down.

Then I stood back and watched.

The workers spent the rest of the day rescuing and recovering the larvae. With the intense, careful work they were doing, I could only presume they were pulling them out of the husk of the hive. Then they set about creating a new hive in the same place, but with fewer cells. They went right back to tending it and sealing the larvae in. Ants scavenged the rest of the non-viable hive, plus at least one wasp that appeared she didn’t survive the dowsing.

Having observed the consequences of my actions and how they worked to create a new hive, I felt bad about it afterward. After all, it was a cosmetic concern. Over the course of them living here, attaching their small hives to corners of framing, they’d been peaceful – no threatening buzzing around humans. So I decided to leave them be.

BBQ sanity

So the ones that are buzzing around your barbeque? Consider cutting them a break, as they can’t help it – they’re hungry, and at least they escaped a potentially unpleasant death at the hands of unwelcoming relatives.

I recommend putting out a dish of extra-sweet aromatic fruit on a table not too far from what you’re planning to eat. Don’t panic when they buzz you, just blow at them, or lightly wave them away. If wasps can recognize individual faces (and Polistes fuscates can), they’ll probably be able to see the difference between the food that we guard, vs. food that no one interferes with.

Bonus in that you could leave the fruit out for other beneficial insects to enjoy. Like bees and even butterflies, if you’re lucky.

Wasps aren’t interested in stinging you, and you can avoid being stung simply by not acting threatened by them, which make you the threat. Most stings happen when we’re not aware – we stumble into nest, or into a single wasp at the wrong time, like the time I grabbed a weeping willow frond, only at a location where a wasp was feeding or resting. Ow. That one hurt. That you’re aware of them means you’re able to stay calm and safe from harm. If you do get stung, just back out of there and wash and treat the affected area. Use an ice pack. Don’t retaliate, even if you’re upset. It will only elevate the threat level.

Since accidents happen, prevent them by being observant – not by killing every wasp that could invade air space near you.

Come fall, they’ll have lived out their natural life cycle and they won’t be bothering anyone. Try not being bothered by them now, while they’re still around.

June is not too late to start an urban potager or native plant garden!

If this spring, with all this rain and insufficient heat, has been frustrating or lacking in inspiration, don’t despair! You can still have a lovely garden this summer. Here are some resources to help you — especially those of you in Montreal, Quebec, and eastern Ontario, where most of these resources can be reached.

While deciding what it is you want in your garden, double-check your zone (Montrealers: we are in Zone 5). Look for vegetables that can be planted in the middle of June for a harvest in a short timeframe, up until October. 

Vegetables

The word potager has long since migrated into English to knowingly refer to a kitchen garden: the herbs and vegetables a cook can reach for at almost any time, to add to a meal, or, space allowing, plant up for proper harvest.

If you can read French, download the Guide potager urbain by the couple from Drummondville who were given a legal hassle in 2012 about having a front yard full of vegetables. This 240-page e-book is a handy guide to having a very attractive and productive garden. You might not be able to do so as extensively as they had it, but set yourself a goal of one small project.

This is the “offending” garden that won the Drummondville couple a victory regarding the use of their front yard for purposes other than lawn and parking

Here are the next steps: Vegetable seedlings are now well past their prime at the grocery stores, garden centres, and greenhouses where they’re sold (one such vendor is Semis urbains / Urban Seedling). You’ll surely be able to find some on sale. Get them into the ground, or into standard or wicking (self-watering) pots as quickly as possible, and water them well (you can even provide some shade for the first day or two; if it’s a sunny spell, they may need it).

Make sure that compost is part of the soil mix, and mulch the surface to retain moisture. Water them every day if the rain doesn’t come.

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