Big City, Little Homestead

Living rural in the city is great – you can do it, too.

Page 4 of 17

A fence of welded wire and cedar posts

This story was originally posted on May 9, 2013. There’s an update down below

At long last, I finally have a new front fence. I could go digging through my photographs to show you its somewhat ugly predecessor — which I built with limited resources in 2010, just to try to keep my rabbits hemmed in—but no, we don’t need ugly temporary hacks here. It never really worked to corral the rabbits anyway.

The kind of fence I wanted was page wire, a wide-grid braided (wrapped, not welded, at the cross-points) wire fence that you find in farm country, with or without barbed wire to keep people out or critters in (some cattle will knock it down if they really want to, but it isn’t a safe fence for horses). However, when I easily found welded-wire fence at the hardware store, I bought it just to commit to the project. I posted it would look something like this when done, except with nice round cedar fence posts from the country, not square city posts.

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Resources to help you design your garden

Well, here we are, late February (oops, March)! Are you ready to design the layout of your garden and get your seeds started?

For those who have the space but haven’t planted a garden before, or for those who planning it anew this year, start with a rough plan: what to place where, by how much space and sun it will get. This will give you an idea how many seedlings you should have of each kind of plant.

I don’t always start seeds every year, and when I do, I’m almost always late at it (much later than February). It’s easy to get a little overzealous and end up tending tonnes of seedlings we have give away. Of course, you start by planting many seeds, because some never germinate, or else germinate and start, but then fail. If they succeed, extra seedlings can come in quite handy when you have space to add a few more good planters.

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Resurfacing a blackboard with homemade chalkboard paint

Blackboard in action
Party guests knew me well

For as long as I’ve owned the house, I’ve had an IKEA blackboard in my kitchen. It’s been a source of amusement for many a guest, as you can see.

Eventually it wore out just from regular use, but also by grease aerosolized from cooking, so it really was no good anymore. Nonetheless, don’t toss out nice things if you have the will to repair them – and chalkboards can be resurfaced!

Meanwhile, after being in my kitchen for well over 17 years, I decided to replace the blackboard with this mug rack that I built of my own design. This in turn let me get rid of a certain cupboard off the wall, and open up my kitchen even more.

Breaking news: Five fugly mugs have since been replaced, either broken or swapped out by better ones and given away. The ones on the bottom shelf are still going strong!

I read online that you didn’t have to buy chalkboard paint at $16 a spray can or $25 a quart can. You could mix it yourself in whatever colour you wanted. The key ingredient is grout, specifically unsanded grout. So I borrowed a bag of this from a contractor friend, and fortunately I had a small quantity of black paint on hand. Bob Vila’s website has a good, standard guide on how to mix and apply it. Make sure to clean the surface well, and rub it with fine sandpaper, as you won’t be using a primer.

The surface of the blackboard wasn’t very large. For my work, I used a measuring cup to do the mixing, and it was a matter of just a couple of teaspoons of grout. I’d already taped the blackboard edges so work could go quickly. I painted it on using a 1-½” brush.

I waited a day between coats and another before final testing, to make sure it was good and cured. You don’t want to mar it with a permanent chalk mark by writing on it before it’s ready!

The surface was considerably rougher than any board you’d buy new at a store. Here’s a writing test:

After I hung the blackboard in a new location, I inspected the chalk I had on hand. Like the blackboard, they’d been exposed to kitchen grease and dust the entire time. I used an old toothbrush to clean the surface of the chalk sticks:

Since mounting / hanging things is a skill you can use for anything, not just blackboards, I decided to write a DIY project for how to hang anything on a wall. And here is the big reveal!

The Danish flag magnet is still in place after all these years!

Converting a nest box to a roost box for winter

This post is a bit of an addendum to Build a nest box for bluebirds and chickadees. If you want to use this one-board/scrap wood tutorial to actually build the box now and set it up as a roost box for the winter, you can flip it upright in spring to serve its nesting purpose.

In winter, birds keep warm by finding niches in which they can roost, and basically puff up and shiver all night long to stay alive. When the landscape is forested, there are lots of places they can go, but in the city, they have to be opportunists and find these niches wherever familiarity allows.

Birds are familiar with birdhouses (that’s what a nest box is, they’re the same thing, provided it’s functional – a lot of birdhouses are decorative), but they’re not the best configuration for winter roosting. While nesting, the birds brood their eggs and chicks on the floor of the box, with airspace above. Remember, cold air sinks. While roosting, the bird will want a sheltered space where their body heat is protected.

Fortunately, there’s a trick we can do to make a roost out of a nest box: Turn it upside down!

Of course it’s not quite that easy. You have to reconfigure the entry to the space to be at the bottom, add a perch inside, and then winterize it. This gallery of pics will show you how, using my front yard chickadee box:

This project will rarely show you proof that the birds use it, but trust that they will. Maybe I ought to come up with a cam project so we can peek in on them!

If the base of your nest box is recessed and has corner drainage, you’ll have to either put a roof on it (because the base is now the ceiling) or wrap it against the elements using landscape cloth or burlap.

You can also mount the roost box to a tree.

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