Living rural in the city is great – you can do it, too.

Category: Eco-Living (page 3 of 4)

Better energy options for drying your laundry

I’ve long used a clothesline to dry my laundry out in the sun and fresh air. When I first moved in, I installed a “clothesline elevator” at the back door. It’s a device that raises and lowers the pulley by about a meter, so that the laundry hangs high overhead.

When I shortened the deck in September 2012, the 2×4 supporting the clothesline’s pulley came crashing down. The screws that held it in place left scrappy holes in the fencepost (same fence post, reused here) from all that tension. The only other place I found to install the pulley made for a shorter clothesline. Loathe to cut the line without having considered all my options, I took the clothesline down for the winter.

My laundry room already has two shower rails to hang clothes from. I also have a clothes drying rack. And this past summer, we had a humid spell that was making my posters and photos curl in my basement, so I acquired an old dehumidifier. It turns out it is the perfect solution for drying clothes indoors on a cool autumn or cold Canadian winter day (it even produces a bit of heat).

Why a dehumidifier is superior to a standard clothes dryer

The annual average cost of running a dryer is $160 (calculated across a few websites, lately). So, after the necessary but variable cost of running baseboard heaters and your refrigerator, your clothes dryer is literally the biggest energy draw in your home. It’s obviously not necessary when you can use a clothesline. But when you run it in winter, you’re virtually throwing money out the window!

When you run a bathroom fan, kitchen fan, or the clothes dryer, you’re venting out air that’s been heated. This depressurizes your home, which will suck cold air in through the cracks, seams, and other places where air infiltrates. Rather than create a pressure differential (and heat the air twice), it makes a lot more sense to use a dehumidifier in the laundry room. The dehumidifer pulls the water out of the clothes in a matter of hours.

My dryer is about 20 years old and brags that it uses 111 kWh per month. Hardly an EnergyStar! I don’t know the rating on my dehumidifier, but it’s surely lower than that, and it’s not dragging cold air for ambient heating. The residual heat of the unit is a bonus, and the water from the reservoir can be used for watering the plants.

Another obvious advantage is that there’s less wear-and-tear on your clothes, and for certain fabrics, less shrinkage! This is a priority in Europe, where they care slightly more about the care of one’s clothes and so typically use better drying options (check out this blog post on the Green Home Building Advisor website).

So I’ve started using the dehumidifier in my laundry room. I’m impressed with the drying time (about 2 hours) and the state of my towels—they don’t dry stiff. The only part I miss is the de-linting that a good tumble dry can do. Should that be a problem for a few sheets and garments, I can take them to the laundromat for a 10-minute tumble to solve that problem.

Solar tunnels and lighting renovations

(The photos in this post are terrible, but that’s the camera I have right now.)

In making my home more energy-efficient, one of the first projects that I could get off the ground was changing the lighting. Here’s one reason it was so necessary:

A recessed lighting pot with a junction box attached to it, with a batt of attic insulation over it

Recessed lighting, beloved by designers and dwellers alike, shouldn’t be installed in a ceiling that vents into the attic (or space below the roof, like in a cathedral ceiling). A pot light necessarily needs to shed the heat of the light unit. It may look nice, but you’re creating a gaping hole, 5″ in diameter, through which all the heat escapes. Heat rises, pulling in air from below, which means you’re constantly heating fresh air that must come in from the outside. Don’t have unsealed holes in your ceiling! (If you’re using the new LED units, which don’t throw off that much heat, you have to seal the casing to the ceiling.)

My attic has 11 rows of batts. I will add more and take my attic insulation from R-20 to R-50.

That’s not the only issue. Unless the pot light has a fireproof box, you’re putting yourself at risk of an electrical fire in your attic. Because, like the above picture shows, insulation batts or blown insulation are layered on top of the electrical wiring.

Look to the right: the dark staining that you see on the Fiberglass Pink is where the batt has acted like an air filter: it’s dust. Fibreglass is slow to catch fire, but there is still has fuel to burn.

Changing the fixtures

One of my priority projects was therefore to cut down on the heat loss by removing the seven recessed lights in my attic ceiling. Three were in the foyer ceiling (pictured below), and four in the bathroom.

The electrician installed junction boxes for regular ceiling lights above the bathroom vanity and at the top of the foyer. I installed some temporary track lighting above the vanity until I can find fixtures I want. We used a swag lamp in the foyer. He also installed a new sconce in the bathroom. I patched over the holes in the ceiling.

We then took these recessed light units and installed them in my basement. With only one recessed light and a pair of sconces, it had been dreadfully dim. Two table lamps and two desk lamps kept things cozy and functional. Still, more overhead lighting would be nice.

Now that I moved five recessed lights down there (six in total), I replaced the halogen bulbs (GU10s; kept to replace burn-out bulbs as-needed for the main floor lights) with brand new LED bulbs. At 5–6W each, the current light circuit uses as much electricity as the single 35W halogen bulb had, before!

Installing the solar tunnels

All of the above effort was a necessary refresh, but it paved the way for something I’ve wanted to do for a long time: bring natural light indoors by installing a solar tunnel! Natural lighting upstairs was entirely dependent on the bedroom and bathroom doors being open. If they were closed, the whole foyer was dark at mid-day. So I’d left one recessed unit in place until the solar tunnels were installed, because the electrician had to come back to connect the light kits.

I ordered the solar tunnels from Velux through my installer. We needed a permit to do this, but they did not have to send it to “study,” because it wouldn’t affect the appearance of the house from the street.

We were really lucky on the late December day the installer scheduled: The weather was unseasonably warm. Installing a solar tunnel involves cutting a big hole in the roof to install the lens and one in the ceiling to insert the diffuser. Then the tunnel to connect the two, and then the light fixtures on the inside of the tunnel. Since we were installing two, I bought a light kit for each of them, so they would be connected to the light switch for nighttime illumination. I also bought the energy kit to make them eligible for the EcoRenov tax credit (now the RénoVert tax credit, good through 2019). This energy kit installs an extra thermal break so that the cold isn’t conducted down into your living space.

The work

You need two skilled workers for the job: one in your attic and one on your roof, fitting together the couplings that will seal the unit and keep water out. And later, the electrician, unless the installer is certified.

The result

The solar tunnels immediately made a big difference – natural light provides quality of life! The formerly dark stairwell is now filled with light:

After painting the ceilings – and the whole bathroom (note the green, then the yellow) – the job was done, and I’m really pleased with it. Money well spent.

To clean the light diffuser: moths who will eventually find their way into the attic and into the tunnel, so to clean it, you simply spin the lock ring, flip the lock tabs, and then pop the circular plastic disc out. It has a rubber gasket seal. Then wash and dry it and pop it back in. Easy-peasy; the hardest part is dealing with the step ladder.

Conserving electricity in winter

There’s a difficulty with most so-called economic behaviour in the world: it pays attention only to the first price tag, and rarely to the second. The first price tag is the sticker at the store. The second price tag is the cost of operation and maintenance. Then, there’s the third — the price you don’t pay, but someone else does. It’s called an externality, and there’s a lot of that going on, and it usually falls to government to pay it, or no one at all. Truly economic behaviour would consider all prices, including these externalities. For these, a mitigation fee could be paid.

Ontario has a Tire Stewardship Program;
this is one of two coasters I have of recycled rubber.

In Quebec, we pay the Electronic Waste fee when we buy electronics. We also pay an environmental tax when we buy tires – at $3 per tire. Then, when you want to scrap your tires, you can bring them to any garage that does tire service, no questions asked. Many go to developing countries for a second life. Those that aren’t fit for reuse go to a recycling plant. They used to be stockpiled — a good practice where recycling technology hasn’t kept pace with the supply — but then, in the early 1990’s, someone accidentally set one ablaze both in Quebec and in Ontario. That kicked recycling into high gear! Quebec even announced last summer (2012) that the last stockpiled tires from its various dumps have now all been recycled.

These price tags also exist when you buy a home. After the purchase price, you first have to pay the excise/land transfer/”bienvenue” tax (and the seller has other closing/selling costs to pay at end of ownership). You have the necessary mortgage interest. After these, the cost of upkeep: condo fees, annual taxes, house insurance. Then your energy and other utility (e.g. water) bills. Lastly, and inescapably, repairs and renovations.

When it comes to energy, as a primary producing nation, Canadians often pay too little, and this bears out in “luxury” design and build choices. We don’t pay much attention as to how we use energy, but of course we always complain when the rates go up, or if there’s a sudden spike in use or price that we didn’t expect.

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Eco-renovations at the Homestead

As the fall harvest winds down with freezing the vegetables (no pickling this year) and prepping the seeds for next, my efforts turn to the green renovation project consultancy I feel is needed.

Over the past year, I took a course on home renovation put on by Héritage Montréal, and then put my new knowledge and project management skills to work.

The goal is to:

  • impact the natural world less by conserving the resources your home uses (electricity, water, landscaping, etc),
  • protect your abode and your investment in it by enhancing its quality, durability, and appeal.

That sounds dry and market-y, but really, the more long-range the decisions you make, the better your home’s intrinsic and emotional value will be. Because people want to live in a place that is not only green, but unique, well-designed/considered, and loved. I’m still “validating” the service, which means finding out what people want. But in the meantime, I’m doing it for myself.

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